Some of you may have noticed that I didn’t post anything for a couple of days, which is unusual for me. The first omission was because the conference I was attending so occupied me, there simply wasn’t time. Yesterday I took an early morning flight to Amsterdam. When I arrived, I was coughing, sneezing, and felt awful. Though I showed up before check-in time, my hotel room was ready for me. I fell into bed and slept for seven hours. Apart from a quick trip to a pharmacy and buying some fruit, I didn’t emerge from my room until this morning.
Amsterdam is a city I’ve visited many times, beginning in 1969. But I haven’t been here in more than fifteen years. It’s still fundamentally the same place, but the number of tourists has swelled to become nearly unmanageable. The desk clerk told me that in off season the ratio of tourists to locals is 10:1. In peak season it can be 25:1. I believe him. While walking around I heard far more English and German than Dutch.
Despite that, the city remains beautiful. Strolling down any street outside of the most touristy areas, the canals, boats, and architecture create picture-perfect scenes in every direction.
I began my day at an untraditional museum—the Nxt Museum, which focuses on new media. The photos I took do not do it justice. Most exhibits are immersive, that is you become part of the art. A few pieces were so enthralling I spent a long time “playing” with them.
Back in the center of the city I first took a ferry across to the North side. The ferries are free because there are no bridges connecting the two sides of the city. Pedestrians, bicycles, and motor scooters cram onto the ferries at top speed. The crowds were huge and avoiding a collision with a bicycle or scooter took a lot of concentration. Fifty years ago, everyone rode bicycles, no matter the weather. They still seem to, despite wonderful public transportation. In center city a car would be impossible with the very narrow streets.
The ferries depart from one side of the central train station. On the other is a huge plaza that used to be filled with bicycles. I don’t know where they park them now, but the plaza was blissfully free of crazy cyclists.
Having walked for several hours, it was time for a rest. I boarded a tourist boat making a circuit of the canals. The sun came out, making the city glisten. Sitting and watching beautiful scenes pass by was very relaxing. I was struck by the number of houseboats lining the canals. They’ve become desirable places to live, rather than their original purpose, which was to ease a housing crisis.
It was getting to be mid-afternoon and time to eat. I found a small café and indulged in a true Dutch specialty, savory pancakes layered with veggies and cheese. They were delicious.
I’m back in the hotel now. After another long nap, I’m feeling back to myself.