For my final day in Berlin Matt, Leonie and I decided to explore the Humboldt Forum. We’d seen it in passing, but prior to this trip I’d never even heard of it. There’s a good reason for that.
Though it looks like a historic building, which in a sense it is, the current structure is quite new. A wonderful video showed the history from its origin as a monastery in the 15th century, through its transformation into the Berlin Palace, the residence of the Hohenzollern rulers of Prussia and later the German Empire. The palace was heavily damaged during World War II and, in a decision that still sparks debate, the East German government demolished the remains in 1950.
In its place they built the Palace of the Republic, home to the East German parliament and a popular cultural venue. After German reunification, asbestos contamination and political controversy led to its closure and eventual demolition. The current Humboldt Forum opened in 2021. Its ornate Baroque façades faithfully recreate much of the original palace exterior, while the interior is entirely modern.
In other words, this site has managed to be a monastery, a royal palace, a communist parliament building, a cultural center including a series of playing fields, a demolition project, and a museum. Few pieces of real estate have reinvented themselves quite so often. If buildings could suffer from identity crises, this one would be in therapy.
When I looked closely, the changes were obvious. Modern, undecorated walls abutted elaborate, sculpture adorned, archways. Only a fragment of the original structure remains open to the public, an exhibit of the sub-basement showing remnants of the inner workings of the building through the centuries.
After visiting the basement, Matt and Leonie left to return to work. I headed to the rooftop for a different perspective of the area. It was a gorgeous day so I sat outside enjoying the view, warmth, sunshine and an Aperol Spritz.
The Humboldt Forum contains several museums, including an anthropology museum and a museum of Asian Art. Both contained impressive displays. While I’ve similar artwork elsewhere, I was enraptured by the design of the exhibits. Plus, there were benches everywhere so that I was able to sit and soak up the material in comfort.
In the evening, we had a farewell dinner at a French Bistro overlooking one of the man-made lakes in Gruenwald, close to where I am staying.
Like the Humboldt Forum, Berlin seems to have recreated itself each time I’ve visited. The city doesn’t try to hide its complicated past. Instead, it layers new ideas atop old foundations, creating something neither entirely historic nor entirely modern. Sitting over dinner on my final evening, I realized that may be what makes Berlin so fascinating: it is a city that never stops becoming.