My latest excursion with the Tbex conference was a tour of Donegal Town. The organizers were determined to have the twelve participants on the tour experience as much as possible. The weather didn’t cooperate, it rained off and on, everything from a fine mist to a torrential downpour. Donegal is a very compact town, so walking distances between each of our stops were short. But even with dashing in and out, we managed to get drenched. While sunshine would have been appreciated, I still loved Donegal and will need to return there.
Our first stop was for coffee and scones with butter, clotted cream, and homemade raspberry jam at the Weaver’s Loft Bistro. We were all in heaven—I honestly don’t think I’ve ever tasted better scones. They were soft, flaky, rich tasting and with the addition of the local butter and raspberry jam an unforgettable taste—the standard for all future scones. Filled with those treats, we learned about the 150 years and five generations of Magee of Donegal weavers. There was no time to shop–a good thing—their clothing is gorgeous but extremely expensive.
The next stop was another local multi-generation family-owned business. Triona specializes in tweeds and hand-knit sweaters. They were magnificent. I spent my time at the store photographing the luscious colors and patterns. As we were leaving they handed each of us a shopping bag with a tissue-wrapped gift inside.
We didn’t have time to open our gifts, because the next stop was Donegal Castle and hoped to get inside before the next downpour. We failed at that. As we walked over the rain started. Umbrellas and hoods up, we heard a brief history of the castle, then went inside. It’s not the most impressive castle I’ve seen, but the stories surrounding it were, as all Irish stories seem to be, filled with drama and humor.
The scones had been consumed only an hour before, but it was time for more food. At the Abbey Hotel we were served beef with Guiness stew, garlic bread, and wine. Delicious as it was, I only ate about half of it.
One side note—at every stop we had a group photo taken with a sign that read #Love Donegal. It was Donegal Day and our photos were about to be plastered everywhere online.
The next stop was yet another multi-generation family business, Hanna Hats. It’s been around for over one hundred years. I’d never seen hats being made before, so it was educational and fun to learn the process of creating the company’s iconic hats and caps. There was a wall showing celebrities wearing Hanna Hats, among them Matt Damon. Supposedly Sarah Jessica Parker, Matthew Broderick, Matthew McConaughey, and others are all big fans.
From there we dashed through pouring rain to the Railway Museum. At one point the railway served Donegal and was the primary method of transportation. It is no longer in operation; buses have replaced the trains. The museum celebrates past glories.
With the rain coming in sheets, I was dreading the trek back into the center of town. The organizer recognized that I have difficulty walking and she called her husband to come pick me up and drive me to our final stop. To say I was appreciative is an understatement. Her (and his) generosity is representative of the incredible hospitality and kindness of everyone I’ve met here.
The final stop was in many ways the best. At Quay West, “an award-winning restaurant with panoramic views over Donegal Bay” we met the owners Jo and Debbie. They are two of the warmest, most hospitable hosts ever. If you ever go to Donegal be sure to stop in, I guarantee you won’t be disappointed. Jo entertained us with stories while teaching us to make proper Irish coffee. It was a whole different level than any Irish coffee I’ve ever tasted. Hot, aromatic coffee with just enough whiskey for a kick and cold, freshly whipped cream on top. While we were visiting there we got introduced to Donegal’s mayor.
Debbie, the chef, treated us to homemade brownies and ice cream garnished with fresh berries. I ate a few bites and asked Debbie if she’d be kind enough to wrap the brownie to go. I simply couldn’t eat another bite, but it was too good to leave behind.
The sun made a brief appearance as we walked to the bus. It disappeared five minutes later. On the bus I opened the gift from Triona. It is a soft, hand-woven scarf in a pale green. I will treasure it forever as a reminder of a fabulous day.