Today was spent going from one end of Dubai to the other, in each place viewing different perspectives of the city.
First stop was “the old town.” It isn’t old, it’s a replica. My favorite part was the painted camels that reminded me of the artist decorated cows that were on display in NYC many years ago.
Next was “the Frame.” When I was in Dubai before the structure was still being built. It’s now up and a very unusual building. At almost five hundred feet tall and three hundred feet wide with a bridge connecting the two towers, it resembles a picture frame. Looking north is Dubai’s historic district; to the south is the modern cityscape. It’s possible to go up and walk on the passageway, but I stayed on the ground.
I then met my first Emirati, someone native to the UAE, Sheikh Rashid. He owns a very upscale (and expensive) art gallery. No photos were allowed. Why, you ask? Because the artwork is woven with twenty-four carat gold threads and studded with jewels. He was very smooth as he tried to sell me a $18,000 wall hanging. He wasn’t successful. But it was an enlightening conversation. He made sure I understood that all Emiratis work, they don’t just live off the oil money that every local is entitled to. Of course, he also made sure I knew they worked at high level government jobs, or owned prosperous businesses, or employed many people.
There was a short stop at Jumeirah beach. It’s a beautiful public beach that seemed to be mostly used by Europeans. What I found interesting was the access and signage for disabled and the elderly. See the photos.
I then boarded the monorail for a trip through Palm Island. Palm Island was the first of the man-made islands in the area. If looked at from above, the shape resembles a palm tree. It’s got private homes (for the wealthy) and upscale hotels. At the very tip of the island is an Atlantis Resort, similar to the one in the Caribbean. I mostly found the whole place weird. But then, much of Dubai is weird.
I wasn’t done yet. My next stop was the Dubai Mall and a visit to Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world. On my last trip I’d visited the mall and been astonished by both the size and craziness of what it contains. In addition to all the high-end global brands (think Tiffany, Bulgari, Cartier, Alexander McQueen, Manolo Blahnik, and the like), there are attractions. There’s an ice rink large enough to play regulation ice hockey, an aquarium and underwater zoo, a sports district (for just about everything), a gazillion restaurants, movie theaters, a fountain with a highly choreographed water show, and much more. You could spend an entire vacation in the mall (and I’m sure some people do). I didn’t go to any of them, but on the endless walk to the entrance to Burj Khalifa, I passed by the outside of the aquarium. It was amazing.
Then up to the 124th and 125th floors of Burj Khalifa. What struck me most is how much the city has grown in eight years. On my last visit there were a lot of towers, but also a lot of desert. Now the desert is far away from the developed area. No matter which direction I looked in, the city had expanded. That included expansion into the sea; there are now a slew of man-made islands.
My final stop for the day was Burj Al Arab. It’s a “seven-star” hotel. Built on the shore, it resembles a ship’s sail. The cheapest room is about $1,200 a night and I suspect it is on a low floor with no view. Prices go up to $17,000 a night. I will never stay there. But, if you make a reservation in advance, it’s possible to go for drinks at the Sky Bar on the 27th floor. And, while you’re there, wander around the property (otherwise there is tight security and you can’t even approach it). I went there for drinks last time and loved it—the views are extraordinary, especially at sunset. So, I went again. Very expensive drinks, but the atmosphere can’t be beat. It was a worthwhile splurge.