I’ve known about the pirate Jean Lafitte for many years and have recently been running into him along the gulf coast, first in Galveston Texas and now in Louisiana. Lafitte’s legacy is deeply intertwined with the lore of the area, where he remains a legendary figure of adventure, rebellion, and piracy. But I never knew there was a town named in his honor. Lafitte is in Jefferson Parish, about thirty minutes from New Orleans.
I was picked up at my hotel this morning by Charlene, from the Jefferson Convention & Visitors Bureau which is sponsoring this portion of my trip. She put together an awesome itinerary for me, beginning in Grand Isle yesterday.
We started the day with a pontoon tour, compliments of Airboat Adventures. It’s a terrific way to see bayous and wildlife (especially alligators). I opted for the pontoon instead of an airboat because the pontoon’s slow pace and lack of noise make it far more relaxing. Along the way we crossed the intracoastal causeway, a 3,000-mile waterway that runs along the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico coasts of the United States from Massachusetts to Texas. Then we headed back into the bayou.
The alligators were very cooperative, practically begging for photos. To ensure they posed nicely, the captain fed them marshmallows. That surprised me, I assumed they were as unhealthy for gators as they are for humans. Apparently not. The gators love them and the only problem they have if they eat too many is gas.
Leaving there we went to Restaurant des Familles in Marrero, a short distance away. The menu features many local specialties. Much as would have loved to have eaten fresh crabs or shrimp, I’m wildly allergic to shellfish. Instead, I opted for alligator stuffed mushrooms. While they tasted wonderful, I wouldn’t have known if the chef had substituted chicken or some other meat. It was seasoned well which took away any distinctive flavor.
After lunch, we took a quick jaunt to the Barataria Preserve of Jean Lafitte National Historical Park. We walked a short distance through the park on a planked trail. It’s an easy and lovely walk. Charlene had hoped to show me the visitor center which has a display about the natural history and environment of the park. It turned out the center was closed for the day.
Heading back to Lafitte we drove to Jean Lafitte Harbor. As in Grand Isle, Hurricane Ida had a devastating impact on Lafitte. The storm surge and heavy flooding submerged homes and businesses, causing widespread destruction. Three years later, they are still rebuilding and there is a lot more work to be done.
At the harbor we met Captain Shaw Couevas for a “Total Cajun Experience.” Jean Lafitte harbor is at the extreme southern end of the land before Barataria, a vast, open expanse of marshes and wetlands that stretches down to Grand Isle. As Captain Shaw told me, nearly everyone in the area works at fishing, shrimping, crabbing or oil, all associated with the unique geography.
Captain Shaw wants people to understand what life was like traditionally for the locals, as well as what it is like today. The experience is tailored to personal preferences. If you want to go out for traditional fishing, you can do that. Or you can get hands-on setting and retrieving crab traps, trout, and jug lines. I opted for a shorter version (it had already been a busy day) where I watched Captain Shaw, and his mate retrieve the lines and traps set earlier. We didn’t catch any fish, but we did trap a bunch of blue crabs.
What I found equally interesting was hearing about the changing salinity of the water as less fresh water comes into Barataria from the Mississippi River. He also explained land reclamation projects being undertaken to counter this and the impact of coastal erosion. He also spoke about the impact of the oil industry, which I was surprised to learn, has become far smaller. Companies are going out of business and those that remain are required to restore areas they work in to what they looked like prior to their being there.
On a gorgeous day, out on the water, I was learning a lot while totally enjoying myself. When we returned to the marina, a freshly prepared Cajun meal (with fresh fish of course) awaited us.
Charlene assured me that we’d barely scratched the surface of what there is to do in Lafitte. If none of what I described appeals to you, while in Lafitte Harbor you can rent one of the cabins at the harbor or book a private fishing charter with a local professional guide who will guarantee you’ll catch fish. In the national park, you can rent a kayak and peacefully paddle through gorgeous scenery at your own pace.