Phil had some things he needed to do today, so I went exploring on my own. What’s nice about getting around the city is that it is very easy–Uber is readily available and inexpensive. The most I’ve paid for any ride was under $5, and most rides are just one or two dollars. You can’t even open the door of a NYC taxi for that amount.
My first destination was El Castillo Museum and Gardens in the El Poblado district of Medellín. The building was constructed in 1930 in the Medieval Gothic style, inspired by castles in France’s Loire Valley. Even more impressive than the house are the surrounding formal gardens, complete with elaborate fountains. But you are definitely not in France. The vegetation is all native to Colombia, including massive palms.
What also sets it apart is that people picnic all over the property. It’s an interesting arrangement; one I’ve not seen anywhere else. Visitors can rent a picnic or party set-up. I followed one couple walking through the grounds with an employee. She carried a large basket with a bottle of wine, glasses, and place settings. Together they went to a site with a glorious view of the fountains. Bouquets were already in place. From the basket, she took out a checkered tablecloth and covered the table. In addition to what she had in the basket, the couple had brought other foods. They were expecting a crowd.
At other setups, there were balloons for what I imagine were birthday parties. Someone should borrow this idea and offer it in the states—it would be an enormous success.
My next destination was the Medellin Modern Art Museum (MAMM), also in the El Poblado district. My Uber driver spoke some English and was very chatty. He’d recently retired from the Colombian navy and drives part time for Uber. “Not,” he told me, “because I need money.” He went on to say, he drives part time because his esposa (wife) said he needed to get out and talk with people. On the drive he pointed out the Santa Fe mall, a very upscale looking shopping center. He was immensely proud of the new hotels that have recently opened (Ibis for one) and all the “fancy” restaurants.
None of this was surprising, as El Poblado is one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in Medellin. According to Phil, it’s also where many expats live. I find that a bit sad, as it doesn’t have much character. The buildings are mostly high rises of steel and glass. Take away the Spanish language and you could be in an affluent section of almost any US city. Near the museum was a high-end craft shop, a slew of expensive looking dining establishments, as well as ice cream shops, and cafes. It’s growing rapidly, there are loads of new buildings going up.
MAMM reminded me of contemporary art museums all over the United States. It had a mix of very “out there” exhibits and a few I found intriguing. A whole floor featured female artists from across Latin America. One room was devoted to women commenting through their art about political strife from the 1950s until the present day. There were some powerful pieces. I also liked an exhibit of Indigenous art from across Latin America. Most surprising were paintings strongly reminiscent of Australian Aboriginal art.
While on a brief walk around the neighborhood I discovered a dog park. That made me happy, I got to say hello to several pooches and their people.
This evening, I met up with Phil, Jim, and their friend Mimi for dinner at one of their favorite restaurants. Italian cuisine, owned by a Colombian chef, Gil, who lived for many years in Philadelphia. I suspect that’s not an unusual story. Medellin is a cosmopolitan city.