We arrived in Messina early this morning. It is my third visit to Sicily, my first time in Messina. On my previous trips, I’d rented a car and explored the island; this was the one corner that eluded me, though I knew it would be interesting. The sun was shining brightly, and the temperature was warm, a great relief after yesterday’s deluge.
Messina, perched on the northeastern tip of Sicily, lies about three kilometers (less than two miles) across the Strait of Messina from Calabria on the Italian mainland. It was founded around 730 BCE by Greek settlers. Since then, it has been a crucial gateway between Sicily and the rest of Europe, thriving under Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, and Spanish rule.
Despite catastrophic earthquakes in 1783 and 1908 and severe damage during World War II, the city has been repeatedly rebuilt. Even though much of the architecture looks like it is centuries old, little of it is.
On our tour of the city, we drove along the shore to admire beautiful villas and the striking shoreline. On this clear day it was easy to see the mainland.
The guide told us about the currents in the strait of Messina which are powerful.
At a local patisserie, we were tempted by a dazzling array of treats. I settled on a cannolo (the singular of cannoli as our guide explained) filled with pistachio ricotta cream. Each cannolo is made to order, so that when it was handed to me the crust was warm and the cream cool. Best cannolo I’ve ever tasted.
Then it was on to the center of town to see the main attraction—its magnificent Cathedral, the Duomo di Messina. It has been rebuilt several times following earthquakes and wartime destruction.
The feature most people come to see is the tall bell tower, home to one of the largest and most complex astronomical clocks in the world. Our guide told us that every day at noon, crowds gather in Cathedral Square to watch the clock’s golden mechanical figures spring to life. Even in November, when tourism is low, the crowds were large. Her explanation took almost as long as the “performance,” which is about twelve minutes.
I made it a point to get into perfect position to watch the golden lion at the top roar three times and wave its paw, symbolizing Messina’s strength. That was followed by a cock that crowed and flapped its wings, heralding renewal. Then the bells chime as a series of mechanical tableaux begin to perform down the tower’s tiers.
On the other side of the tower, the astronomical dial marks the passage of time, the phases of the moon, and the movements of the planets.
The guide recommended a restaurant, Il Siciliano. While there were a few tourists, most of the diners were locals enjoying Sunday brunch. Sue ordered an enormous bowl of pasta with clams and mussels in olive oil and garlic, which she pronounced among the best she’d ever eaten. I had a plate of mixed fish, prepared in multiple ways. It was delicious.
Sue returned to the ship; I walked through the town until both my back and legs began to complain.