The sky had just brightened when I opened the curtain and had my first glimpse of Nuku Hiva. It is the largest island in the Marquesas Island group, which is not to say it is a huge island. I stood on the terrace entranced by the scene before me—high, foliage covered peaks meeting turquoise sea. For a good thirty minutes I couldn’t tear myself away from the view. Then breakfast called.
Post breakfast, I boarded a tender to the island. As we pulled up to the dock, a man was cleaning just-caught fish, and several people were staring into the water. A group of sharks had come to feast on the fish remains. Fins surfaced then disappeared and sleek black sharks sliced through the water. We’ve been told several times that the sharks here have plenty of food and aren’t interested in humans. But having seen Jaws last year, I was happy I wouldn’t be swimming today.
Minutes later I arranged for a taxi driver to take me and three others on a tour of the island. We sat on benches in the bed of the truck (seat belted in) as the taxi headed up land. The higher we were, the more panoramic the views. The driver stopped a couple of times at scenic overlooks. Bougainvillea and gardenias framed views of the water and scented the air. I thought, now I have arrived in paradise.
Our first major stop was in a town where Herman Melville wrote Typee. For me, that was the least interesting aspect of the town. I was taken by the flowers—hibiscus, ghost lilies, ginger flowers, gardenia, and dozens of others I couldn’t identify. As our small group walked to the ceremonial area of the town, a woman offered me slices of just-picked mango. I’ve never tasted a mango as fresh or sweet. On our way back to the vehicle, she offered each of us a piece of grapefruit that I’d just seen her pick. The grapefruit was enormous, three times the size of the ones I’m used to. It was almost liquid, with no acidity. I may never be able to eat grapefruit at home again.
The artwork, carvings and paintings, are clearly part of a local tradition. Our driver spoke only broken English and none of us spoke French. I wish we’d been able to communicate better. It would have been nice to know the stories behind the figures.
Then it was on to a black sand beach where I waded in the warm water. All along the drive we passed people on horseback or working. Everyone gave a friendly wave and smile. Whenever I asked anyone if I could take a photo, they gave a huge smile for the camera.
Three hours later we returned to the dock. Lunch was in order. At a local waterside café, I ordered tuna sashimi and a glass of fresh squeezed grapefruit juice. I’m sure the fish was swimming and the grapefruit still growing this morning. It would have been impossible to have fresher food.
In town there are a few shops and a craft co-op. I was taken by the beautiful wood carvings of the local fauna. The jewelry and fabrics and woodblock prints were lovely. I was saved by the fact that they don’t take credit cards and after paying the taxi driver I didn’t have enough cash. BTW, they do business in US dollars.
Today was exactly the day I’d been hoping for. Not over-touristed, very rugged, mostly undeveloped, with memorably beautiful scenery and very friendly people.