I was supposed to go on a tour of Richmond called Beauty in Bloom. Instead, I found myself on a tour that could have been called Offbeat Richmond History: The Weird Stuff Nobody Told You About in School.
It was a cloudy morning with intense rain predicted for midday, not a great forecast for walking around gardens. The idea of driving around Richmond hearing stories about strange events sounded a lot better.
The decision proved to be an excellent one. Richmond has no shortage of odd stories. Among the stories the guide shared were:
— The city planner who designed Richmond, John Mayo, created maps with no street names or numbers. For sixty years the residents navigated by landmarks until some bright city planner thought it was time to assign names and numbers. I have an image of people wandering around endlessly cursing Mr. Mayo.
— One neighborhood, Scott’s addition, is named for Winfield Scott a well-known teetotaler. The area is now packed with breweries, wine bars and pubs. Mr. Scott is probably spinning in his grave.
— There is a local saying, “They’re headed for Hollywood.” No, they’re not planning to become an actor, they’re about to die and go to the Hollywood cemetery.
— Then there was Lady Wonder (1924 – 1957) who was said to have psychic abilities and be able to perform intellectually demanding tasks such as arithmetic and spelling. Lady’s owner, Claudia E. Fonda, trained her to operate a device that she used to spell out answers. The horse was said to have predicted the outcome of boxing fights and political elections and was consulted by the police in criminal investigations.
After the tour, I headed over to the Jefferson Hotel, one of Richmond’s most distinctive landmarks. It’s an elegant late-19th-century building whose red brick exterior, towers, and ornate architectural details make it look as though it belongs in another era. The hotel is perhaps best known for its alligators, though not the sculptures one sees there now. Years ago, travelers returning from Florida often brought home baby alligators as souvenirs. As the cute little reptiles grew into decidedly less manageable adults, owners looked for somewhere to put them. The Jefferson”s fountains became their new home. Over the years the hotel’s resident alligators became local celebrities. It’s hard to imagine a more memorable use for a hotel fountain.
I briefly considered lunch at the Jefferson Hotel, but the lure of Beatles memorabilia proved stronger than elegance. So, I headed over to Penny Lane. If you connect that name with the Beatles, you are correct. It is a British Pub with lots of Beatles’ memorabilia. It’s also a gathering place for soccer enthusiasts. With FIFA in progress, it’s an extremely popular place. In addition to the décor, it’s got good pub food.
While I was in the pub the predicted rain appeared as a deluge. Several people came in soaked to the skin. Umbrella in hand I made a dash to my car, only getting a little wet. Through the downpour I drove to the Virginia Museum of History and Culture.
The parking gods were with me and I got a spot right next to the entrance. One more quick dash and I was in a dry place with lots to keep me occupied. Though I’m not usually much of a history buff, unless the history involves oddballs, eccentrics, or questionable decisions, I found the exhibits surprisingly engaging. There was everything from the story and importance of immigrants in Virginia, to local history (as representative of American history) from pre-revolution to the current day. There was information about slavery and civil rights, the women’s suffrage movement, regional exhibits, even some outsider art.
When I left, the rain had become a light drizzle. I returned to the Airbnb and took a much-needed nap. Then with my housemates we went to the dinner at a terrific restaurant, Daily Kitchen and Bar.
By the time we left dinner, the sun was shining and the streets were drying. Tomorrow promises blue skies and sunshine. Richmond has already delivered art, tea, alligators, Beatles memorabilia, psychic horses, and surprisingly interesting history. I’m curious to see what it has planned for an encore.