Taipei, Taiwan – Day 2

Today was all about food and drink. We met up this morning with Ivy Chen for a market tour. Because it was just Tristan and me, we got to ask all the questions we wanted. Ivy is a fount of information. The market is filled with small stalls, each specializing in something different. At the tofu seller Ivy explained the various types and how they are made and used. We learned how different jellies (not sweet) are made—most from seaweed. But there is also Aiyu jelly made from figs. At the rice sellers, we saw a dozen different varieties and got an explanation of where the types are grown and what they are used for. We watched dumplings being made. In the produce stalls there were vegetables, herbs, and fruits we’d never seen before. Or, if we had, didn’t know how they are prepared and eaten. Foods are prepared when they are in season. Most are classified as cooling or warming.

Then we walked to Ivy’s home. Upon arrival, Ivy prepared tea for us. It is the traditional Taiwanese way to greet guests. Their tea ceremony differs greatly from a Japanese or mainland China ceremony. She also explained that tea is now mainly harvested by machines, something that in the past was frowned upon. But the machines have improved, and machine-picked tea is now considered very good.

We donned aprons and started preparations for three dishes: Don Po pork, Peanut and sticky rice zongzi, and pearl meatballs. The trickiest of the three was the sticky rice. The rice preparation is simple. But then it needs to be wrapped in bamboo leaves. Soaking and washing the bamboo leaves is time consuming. It’s the folding the leaves into a pouch to hold the rice mixture that requires specific moves, the right pressure and tying them off so that the triangular package holds together during steaming. We drank cold grass tea while cooking. It’s considered a cooling food, has a slightly grassy flavor and was refreshing.

While we cooked, Ivy spoke about Taiwanese customs. Both Tristan and I learned a lot, while having a wonderful time. Then, of course, we got to eat our creations. The food was delicious.

Tristan was interested in going to a shopping district for electronics. Ivy directed us to the main tech market. I strolled around a bit, then decided to relax while Tristan continued his explorations. While waiting, I drank an apple tea and people watched. We both had an enjoyable experience.

On the way to our next destination, we passed several fun sculptures that I felt compelled to pose with. Ivy had recommended we visit the Taiwan Brewery. As we were trying to find the location of the tasting room / restaurant, a man on a bicycle stopped and asked, “Do you want free beer?” That got an absolute yes from both of us.

We figured we’d be going to the tasting room. Instead, he led us into an office. There we were greeted by a roomful of people. We were asked, “Where are you from?” When I responded New York City and Tristan said Indiana, there was a loud cheer and applause. From that point on things got interesting and fun. It was a fun-loving group. I’ve no idea how we got together, but it included a Taiwanese couple, several Japanese men, a Korean woman, a German man, and us. The brewery employee kept handing out bottles of beer. Then he started to prepare a duck dish as a snack for all of us. I was peppered with questions about NY sports teams and Tristan was asked about the Pacers. A bottle of local vodka was passed around, both Tristan and I abstained. But the two of us finished off three bottles of beer. The 18-day beer was some of the best beer I’ve ever had—light and flavorful.

By the time we exited, one of the Japanese guys was roaring drunk (he’d been drinking full glasses of vodka as if it were water).

Our final stop was for dinner at Feng Delicious Restaurant. They serve traditional Taiwanese cuisine. We ordered the tasting menu for two (which could easily have served four). There were seven courses: pickled wood mushrooms, which was my favorite dish of the meal, sauerkraut soup, braised tofu, pork and squid, sea bass, a pork dish, and a sweet gelatinous soup for dessert (my least favorite). Tristan tried a lychee and dragon fruit smoothie, and I had an iced pineapple tea. The food was fabulous.

It was a long day, but fun from start to finish.