After an early morning stretch class in a heated mineral water pool (divine) my friend Sue and I set out on an excursion to two nearby towns. Our first stop was in Toluca the second was in Metepec.
Today’s entry will focus on Toluca. That was where I most wanted to go ever since I saw photos of the city’s botanical garden. The Cosmovitral Jardín Botánico combines art and nature to stunning effect. Let me just say—those pictures didn’t come close to capturing the magic.
Right in the heart of downtown the Cosmovitral Jardín Botánico is a dazzling marriage of art and nature. The building itself has a history: originally constructed in 1909–1910 as a grand Art Nouveau market hall, it was all iron and glass, echoing the feel of an old-world train station. It bustled with vendors until 1975. After it closed, the space was transformed into something extraordinary, a living museum of plants framed by one of the largest non-religious stained-glass installations in the world.
Walking inside feels like stepping into another realm. Vast walls and ceilings blaze with stained glass that depicts cosmic dualities—day and night, life and death, creation and destruction. Beneath this kaleidoscope of color, the garden features four themed sections. In the desert area, spiky cacti and succulents celebrate Mexico’s desert landscapes. There is a serene Japanese garden complete with bonsai, a koi pond, and a friendship lantern gifted from Japan. The lush tropical zone bursts with orchids and bird-of-paradise. Finally, grove of native plants and trees.
Water elements sparkle throughout—ponds with lilies and callas that mirror the stained-glass above, creating reflections that blur the line between art and nature.
What enchanted me most was the contrast: the weight of the iron-and-glass architecture, the shimmering brilliance of the murals, and the living plants that change with every season. It was otherworldly and grounding all at once. Truly, I’ve never seen anything like it.