This morning, I flew to Milwaukee, the start of a Midwest trip on the trail of outsider art and friends and family. I met up with my friend Judy at the airport and within minutes of collecting a rental car, we were on our way to the Milwaukee Art Museum. It’s a place I have not visited in decades but … Read More
Terlingua to El Paso, Texas
Tomorrow Liz flies home to Louisiana and I return to NYC. That meant driving from Big Bend to El Paso, about three hundred miles. We had all day, so it shouldn’t have been onerous. But overnight, everything changed. The temperature dropped from over one hundred degrees to mid-fifties in the morning and the temperature never climbed above sixty. And the … Read More
Big Bend National Park, Texas
For decades, Big Bend National Park lived in my imagination, one of those alluring but remote places that always felt just out of reach. It is situated in a vast corner of west Texas where distances stretch endlessly. Getting here requires intention. And patience. And a willingness to go far beyond “on the way.” Now, exploring it, I wonder why … Read More
Study Butte and Terlingua, Texas
I suspect that for nearly everyone reading this, these two town names are completely unfamiliar. I’d certainly never heard of them before planning this trip to West Texas. Both sit just outside Big Bend National Park, small outposts on the edge of a vast landscape. But let’s start at the beginning. We left Fort Davis after what can only be … Read More
Alpine and Fort Davis, Texas and the McDonald Observatory
The Museum of the Big Bend is small, unlike its subject. It was a great orientation, offering a clear, engaging introduction to the region’s geology and human history, from prehistoric times to today. For such an isolated area the interactions among native Americans, the Spanish, and Americans has been very active. For those of us who are a wee bit … Read More
Marathon, Texas
Before leaving Marfa this morning, we stopped at the courthouse. Several people had told us the interior was a step back in time, and they were right. The original wood has been lovingly restored, and the architecture harkens back to an earlier West. Standing in the courtroom, I found myself thinking of Inherit the Wind with Spencer Tracy. I could … Read More
Marfa, Texas
We began with breakfast at the Sentinel, part restaurant /coffee shop, bookstore, gallery, and informal town square. Within two minutes we were in conversation with a couple from Dallas. It is the kind of place that invites connection, whether you planned it or not. Crossing the street, we wandered into a few shops. In one gallery I fell in love … Read More
El Paso to Marfa Texas
My friend Liz was flying into El Paso to join me for a West Texas road trip. I had a few free hours to fill before her arrival. Naturally, I went hunting for murals. My search took me through neighborhoods I might never have seen otherwise, and even then I only scratched the surface. With a three-hour drive ahead, I … Read More
Cultural DC
When I visit DC, one of my first stops is the Renwick Gallery. It’s one of the Smithsonian museums, but one that is less well attended than the larger, more famous ones. It is dedicated to American crafts. The current exhibition is “State Fairs Growing American Craft.” As someone who is also a fan of state fairs, this was especially … Read More
Sagaponack, NY – Madoo Garden
While visiting friends in Sag Harbor, we took a drive to visit Madoo Garden. I’d never heard of it, but it’s a jewel. Though not very large in total acreage, it is laid out so ingeniously and whimsically that it feels much larger. Each small “room” has a unique character created by the layout, plants, and strategically placed, colorful objects, … Read More