In 1992, I took a three-month sabbatical and spent most of it wandering through Indonesia. With more than 17,000 islands to choose from, narrowing an itinerary wasn’t easy. But of all the places I visited, the one that captivated me most was Sulawesi.
My destination was Toraja, high in the mountains, remote enough that simply getting there felt like an accomplishment. It was worth the long bumpy ride. The Torajan people have created a culture unlike any I’ve encountered. Their soaring traditional houses are instantly recognizable, their woodcarving and weaving are works of art, and their approach to life—and especially to death—is unlike anywhere else on earth. (More about that tomorrow.)
One of the highlights of my visit was being invited to a housewarming celebration, an experience I’ll never forget. But that’s another story for another day.
For now, I’d like to introduce you to some of the people who made Sulawesi unforgettable.